FUSIBLE INTERLINING APPLICATIONS AND GENERAL SUGGESTIONS
During the application, the coat on the fusible interlining is
liquidized by using heat, and transfer of this liquid onto the
cloth at necessary amount, is established by the pressure. At the
end of this process, by the cooling and the solidification of the
coat, perfect fusing of the cloth and the fusible interlining is
established.
In the application of fusible interlining adhesion, the safest way
is to use a press machine. The quality and the well-kept state of
the press is one of the most important factors that directly affect
the final quality of the shirt. Although the type of fusible
interlining may differ with regard to the cloth quality to be
applied, there are some general criteria about the usage of the
presses. Press temperature should be around,
**0 degrees Celsius for fusible interlining products that are
**0gr/m2 or below,
**0 degrees Celsius for fusible interlining products that are
between **0gr/m2 and
**0gr/m2
**5 degrees Celsius for fusible interlining products that are
**0gr/m2 or above.
To control the suggested temperature, temperature measuring papers
should be used; those heat sensitive papers should be placed
between the cloth and the fusible interlining while they are going
into the press. Temperature is measured by the darkening rate of
the heat indicators on the paper. If this process is applied to the
right and left wings of the press at the same time, it allows
observing whether heat differences occur between wings, or not.
PROPERTIES OF PRESS
To keep the quality at standards, the maintenance of the press
should be made regularly and on time.
It should be used in an environment, which is isolated from the
flow of yarn and fibre, and humidity.
It should have the structure and properties that are matching with
the purpose.
The heat and pressure values should be homogenous on the surface of
the press blanket.
The similarity of the parameter indicators ( pressure and heat )
and actual indicators should be checked frequently, in case of
mismatching occasions, the maintenance should be informed for the
necessary fixing.
The parameter indicators should be sensitive enough. Some analogue
indicators might have temperature reading tolerances between ***5
C. In such cases; the thermometer might close the circuit at **5
degrees Celsius, whereas it ought to do so at **0 degrees Celsius,
and may mislead the operator.
There should not be any corrosion allowed on the press cylinders,
and the cylindrical pressure should be equally balanced on left,
right and middle parts.
The cylinders should be checked frequently, the silicone covered
cylinders must be changed regularly and the hardness of the
silicone should be controlled continuously.
The operators should be experienced.
For the presses operating with single personnel; as the blankets
may erode unequally, the personnel should work in rotation.
Products that come out of the press should not be handled before
they are cooled, and in case of necessity for handling hot,
appropriate care should be given. Otherwise, finger marks and
loosen strength occurs at the points of contact.
There should not be any deep scratches or patches on the blanket
surface. If there are patches, care must be given to make the
fusing of cloth and fusible interlining apart from this patchy
area.
BASIC SUGGESTIONS ABOUT THE PRESSES
Internal temperature of the press must frequently be controlled
through electronic thermometer or temperature measuring papers.
In the mornings, ( especially in winter ) when the presses are
first started, overall temperature in the press may remain below
the optimum level even though thermometer, being fed by the
resistance, indicates the right temperature. In such case,
differences may occur between applications in the early mornings
and afterwards. This is an important aspect that must be paid
attention in terms of the quality of the product. In order to avoid
this problem, no fusing should be done, for at least *0 minutes
after the press is started.
OBSERVING THE INTERNAL PRESSURE AND HEAT HOMOGENITY OF PRESS
Compress the cloth and the fusible interlining, cut in 5 cm
stripes, simultaneously, to be fused at the left, right and middle
parts of the press and check if any differences occur in their
dismantlement strengths. The dismantlement strength should be
minimum 1.2 Kg.
Compress the shirt collar, in parellel to blanket’s flowing
direction. Check the dismantlement strength. If there is strength
difference between the sides, compress once more while turning the
left and right sides upside down. In this case, if the strength
difference disappears, it means that the problem is in press
cylinders, have it checked immediately.
You could also do this control, when the press is cold, by using
white A4 size standard papers and an unused carbon paper. Place the
unused A4 size carbon paper between 2 white A4 size papers.
Compress the papers from the left, right and middle at the same
time. Observe the darkening ratio of the white papers by the carbon
paper and see whether its marks are different at the left, right
and middle parts, or not.